![]() ![]() Still, the risk of damaging a barrel is significant. I was really blaming the clamp but then I pulled the flash hider and replaced the crush washer with another from a different supplier and then then was able to tighten the flash hiders to the proper alignment practically with ease. Had it been my beautifully finished Rosco barrels I would have been pissed. No matter how tight (I literally picked up myself on the vise handle) I tightened the vise, the barrel spun in the barrel clamp, damaging the finish on the cheap AR Stoner barrels. I had to remove the gas tube (good thing I found gas tube pins $6.00 a hundred at Grainger) and put the barrel vise block behind the gas block. The only place to attach the vise block is forward of the gas tube block except that the vise block is longer than the space available for my 11.5 inch barrels. The barrel vise block is pretty bad for a pistol build. The lower-style block wasn't helpful for this because it required turning against the alignment pin. I got both vise mounts - already had a couple of the upper blocks that wrap the upper but now I have the barrel vise block and the vise block that attaches to the upper like the lower. my barrel clamp is made of aluminum so it's softer than the barrel and does not mar the finish. you could rap a piece of thick leather around the barrel to protect it and clamp it in the vice just be careful not to mar the barrel up. I do put a drop of rockset on the threads but a drop of locktite would also work but probably is not necessary.ĮTA, also you want to use barrel vise jaws to hold the barrel while tightening the flash hider, never use the barrel extension pin and upper to do this. it was about 3/4 of a turn more to get it lined up after contact with crush washer. you can see the gas tube on the backside of the wrench in the picture. This is what it looked like when it made contact with the crush washer I then tightened it till the center cut lined up with the gas tube. if you used a crush washer you simply tighten it to where the center slit/cut lines up with the center top of the barrel after the flash hider makes contact with the crush washer. the solid part goes on the bottom and center slit/cut goes at the top in line with the gas port/gas tube. There should be five slits or cuts for the flash to escape through on that flash hider. What are your thoughts on doing that?įirst off you did use a crush washer right? I have read often about the trouble people have getting flash hiders off so, on only one of the two, I put anti-seize compound on the barrel threads. I'm not sure I could get it to go that far without damaging the barrel alignment pin in the barrel extension. To get the solid portion on the bottom, would require another 180 degrees of tightening. To get it where it is now, I had to tighten in the vise just over 90 degrees. This time, though, I aligned the solid part on the top, openings on the bottom - it seems that having the flash blocked on top might be the right choice but it sure wouldn't match the pictures. ![]() My first AR I built, years ago, I aligned that solid part on the bottom, openings on the top. What's the center cut? In their video the wrench flats are approximately vertical but not actually he has the solid portion slightly to the side of centered on the bottom. Midway's video says to tighten it until "Center cut is straight up". When I finger tightened it, the solid portion was on the bottom so I knew I had to go beyond that. I built a couple AR-s today but I have one question about whether I did the flash hider correctly. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |